Ryan de Leon

Chef de partie, Scaramouche restaurant
Toronto, Canada

Chef de partie, Scaramouche restaurant
Toronto, Canada

Method

Smoked Bacon Jus

In a suitable pan cook the bacon along with the vegetables until lightly colored. Add the tomato paste and continue cooking until a deep, rich brown colour has developed. Pour in the wine and reduce by half.  Add the juniper berries, black peppercorns, bay leaf and thyme sprigs.  Simmer to reduce by a third.  Strain through a fine mesh strainer and refrigerate until cold, at which point any fat can be easily removed from the sauce, set aside.  Return the sauce to a boil and finish with the butter, checking the seasoning.

Salsify and Cabbage Roll

Bring the water, lemon juice and butter to a simmer.  Season with salt to taste, add the peeled salsify and poach until tender. Remove 4 pieces that are a nice shape and set to one side to cool in a little of the poaching liquid. Drain the remaining salsify and puree until smooth, set aside.

Wrap the reserved salsify as tightly as possible in the cabbage leaves to form neat cylinders, trim the ends square and place in a small pan with a little of the liquid. Set aside.

To make the salsify mash:  In a small pan sauté the bacon, shallot and shredded cabbage in a little butter.  Add the salsify puree and cream.  Season to taste with salt and pepper, and keep warm.  Reheat the cabbage rolls, slice in half and drizzle the olive oil over the cabbage rolls.

Crusting and cooking the Venison

Lightly toast the juniper berries and peppercorns, cool and crush.  Add the chopped thyme and mix in well. Season the venison loin with salt. Heat a cast iron pan with a little oil and butter over medium high heat. 

Cook the venison on each side until evenly browned and medium rare.  Remove from heat and roll in the spice and thyme mix, and leave to rest on a wire rack in a warm spot.  While the venison is resting, finish the dish.

To Serve:

Divide the salsify mash between 4 plates.  Slice the venison loin into 12 slices and lay three per plate over the mash.  Arrange the cabbage rolls on each plate and drizzle with the sauce, scatter a little more of the crushed spices and thyme and serve.

Smoked Bacon Jus

In a suitable pan cook the bacon along with the vegetables until lightly colored. Add the tomato paste and continue cooking until a deep, rich brown colour has developed. Pour in the wine and reduce by half.  Add the juniper berries, black peppercorns, bay leaf and thyme sprigs.  Simmer to reduce by a third.  Strain through a fine mesh strainer and refrigerate until cold, at which point any fat can be easily removed from the sauce, set aside.  Return the sauce to a boil and finish with the butter, checking the seasoning.

Salsify and Cabbage Roll

Bring the water, lemon juice and butter to a simmer.  Season with salt to taste, add the peeled salsify and poach until tender. Remove 4 pieces that are a nice shape and set to one side to cool in a little of the poaching liquid. Drain the remaining salsify and puree until smooth, set aside.

Wrap the reserved salsify as tightly as possible in the cabbage leaves to form neat cylinders, trim the ends square and place in a small pan with a little of the liquid. Set aside.

To make the salsify mash:  In a small pan sauté the bacon, shallot and shredded cabbage in a little butter.  Add the salsify puree and cream.  Season to taste with salt and pepper, and keep warm.  Reheat the cabbage rolls, slice in half and drizzle the olive oil over the cabbage rolls.

Crusting and cooking the Venison

Lightly toast the juniper berries and peppercorns, cool and crush.  Add the chopped thyme and mix in well. Season the venison loin with salt. Heat a cast iron pan with a little oil and butter over medium high heat. 

Cook the venison on each side until evenly browned and medium rare.  Remove from heat and roll in the spice and thyme mix, and leave to rest on a wire rack in a warm spot.  While the venison is resting, finish the dish.

To Serve:

Divide the salsify mash between 4 plates.  Slice the venison loin into 12 slices and lay three per plate over the mash.  Arrange the cabbage rolls on each plate and drizzle with the sauce, scatter a little more of the crushed spices and thyme and serve.